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Working Light bracket, best way to fit your LED light.

By MilSpec Vehicles Information No Comments

In this small video you can see why our working light bracket is the most efficient way to fit your LED light’s.

Normally, your LED light has restricted movement because it is fitted directly to the back panel with it’s own bracket. This only allows for an up or downward motion. If you would want the LED light to give some light more to the left or right it is not possible, unless you change the position of the whole light.

With this 3 mm aluminium working light bracket, you do not have this problem. It is powder coated in black to give it protection from the elements. It is fitted with 4 bolts to your Land Rover panel and then it is ready to receive the LED light. Different size LED lights can be fitted on this working light bracket. The benefit of this bracket is the freedom of motion you can experience with your LED light. Besides moving the LED light up and down, you can also move it almost 180° from left to right (depending on the size of the LED light).

Besides the Land Rovers, this working light bracket can also be fitted to other 4×4 cars, such as Jeeps.

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Painting the new chassis

By Geen onderdeel van een categorie, Rebuild Defender 90

Chassis painted


Underside still needs to be done


Front underside of the chassis

After our vacation I started painting the new chassis. It took way longer than I expected it to take. With only one person and a small brush it took about 3 hours+ to paint it once, second coat was a bit faster, about 2 hours. But since we couldn’t put the chassis at such a height that it could be painted at once, I had to do the bottom part later. Took also about 1,5 hours, so now I’m done painting it.

So that’s finished, just the rear cross member will be sprayed in the final car color later on. Also painted some other minor stuff, just to work ahead.


Crossmember got some paining as well











Test Fitting

We also started preparing the axles so we can have a rolling chassis. Almost finished both sides of the hubs, swivel pin housings and disc brakes. Almost all parts are new or have been sand blasted. Also brought both differentials to Barten4x4 in Veghel. He did an excellent job refurbishing the old 10 splines diffs, so they can take a couple of miles again. Next couple of weeks will be rebuilding the axles so they are fully ready again, fit some springs (just for the meantime) and get our self a rolling chassis.


test fitting


By Geen onderdeel van een categorie, Rebuild Defender 90

Since the axles were already blasted, the first thing we did was weld them and give them a new impact resistant coating.

We already used the coating on the defender 110 we own. After 5 months its still shining under the defender with no chips after driving offroad. DSCN4047



The paint we used

The paint we used


By Geen onderdeel van een categorie, Rebuild Defender 90

Since we don’t want to go to the sandblaster with all the rusty parts, we have we bought a sandblasting cabinet. It works really well and I can recommend it. Especially with a or several Land Rovers.

A cabinet is easy to build yourself. Ours is bought though. The principle is easy. The blasting gun sucks up the grid with the airflow. After the blasting the grit goes back to the bottom of the cabinet where the cycle starts over. The downside of this set up is that you need a large air compressor and a part of the pressure is used to suck up the grid. So when you set the compressor at 7 bar, you won’t be blasting at 7 bar.

There is another way of blasting. It’s with a pressure pot. With this set up you have an air tank half filled with grid and pressurized. Because of the pressure, the grid is pushed out instead of sucked up. Another hose gets pressured air to the part where the grid exits the tank. This way you lose no pressure and you can blast at just 4 or 5bar instead of 8 bar with the suck up system. There for its way more effective and it blasts way faster than with the old setup. With the pressure pot we can blast 6 times faster than with the suck up system.  I can do a brake caliper in about 6 minutes.

The downside is that the pressure pot is made in china and it has some design flaws. The valve that regulates the grit flow tends to get blocked by sand that is sticking together because of water that is pumped in when it’s really humid outside. Or just by rust or paint parts.

Therefor we are going to modify the valve and make it larger.

A - 1/2" MIP x 3/8" MIP B - 1/2" ball valve C - 1/2" x close nipple D - 1/2" MIP x 1/2" barbed fitting E - 1/2" galvanized Tee F - 1/2" galvanized 45* G - 1/2" MIP x 3/8" MIP H - 3/8" brass coupling

A – 1/2″ MIP x 3/8″ MIP
B – 1/2″ ball valve
C – 1/2″ x close nipple
D – 1/2″ MIP x 1/2″ barbed fitting
E – 1/2″ galvanized Tee
F – 1/2″ galvanized 45*
G – 1/2″ MIP x 3/8″ MIP
H – 3/8″ brass coupling

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